The Perfume Bee

I have always loved tulips — planting tulip bulbs in the fall is an act of faith, and when they bloom in the spring I always breathe a sigh of relief that another winter has been successfully weathered. Besides that, tulips are just so beautiful to look at! But where is their scent? These brightly-colored, proud, long-stemmed flowers tempt us with promises of a gorgeous fragrance in line with their physical beauty, but, alas, they emit just the faintest scent of green (which is probably coming from the leaves anyway)!

What would a tulip fragrance smell like? I think it would be cheerful, sunny and bright, with a touch of humor and grace. And this is not just a rhetorical question. Clever perfumers have been creating fragrances from scentless flowers for many years. New York Times perfume critic Chandler Burr discusses this in a recent New York Times article, “Ghost Flowers.”

He describes Flower by Kenzo as an example of a parfum based on the imaginary scent of the red poppy. The Kenzo website emphasizes this by stating, “The poppy is scentless, Kenzo invents its fragrance.” Perfumer Alberto Morillas made the perfume using a natural violet leaf, essence of acacia flower, linalyl aetate, geraniol and citronellol (which are molecules found in rose and jasmine). He then made it smell “red” by adding synthetic and pure vanillas, heliotropin and benzyl acetate. The result, launched in 2000, is the beautiful Flower By Kenzo, a highly successful and popular fragrance.

Another beautiful flower having no smell is the camellia. Chanel’s gifted perfumer, Jacques Polge, was assigned the task of making a perfume based on this flower, which was Coco’s favorite. The result is the delightful Une Fleur de Chanel, based entirely on an imagined scent.

In light of that, shouldn’t somebody be working on a lovely tulip eau de parfum?

Tulip Photo © 2007 The Perfume Bee

Share This

All this talk about Chanel’s new releases and re-releases of previous fragrances got me to thinking about other Chanel favorites. My friend, M., recently shared her Chanel No. 19 eau de parfum with me, and I was struck anew by its green floral elegance. I have the eau de toilette version, which, while lovely, is like a sheer gossamer veil compared to the richness of the eau de parfum.

Henri Robert created N°19 especially for Coco Chanel, reflecting the qualities attributed to her by an admirer: witty, outspoken, supremely confident and intensely feminine. The fragrance was released to the world in 1971, just before her death. The number 19 celebrates Coco’s birthday on the 19th of August. (She was clearly a Leo!) (chanel.com).

From the very first sniff, you know you’re dealing with a classic. Its sharp, almost musty galbanum/neroli top notes are quickly followed by the dewy sweetness of hyacinth. The rich oakmoss/sandalwood/leathery accord lends it a tremendous depth and staying power. Its dry down has a honeyed-sweetness which is warm and woodsy without being cloying. I really like this vintage gem. It is the perfect daytime-into-evening fragrance.

Notes (from basenotes):

Top
Galbanum, Bergamot, Neroli, Hyacinth

Middle
Rose, Orris, Jasmine, Narcissus, Muguet, Ylang-Ylang

Base
Musk, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Leather, Cedarwood

Chanel No. 19 is available at saks.com and nordstrom.com.

Price: $87 for 3.5-oz. eau de toilette

(note: the eau de parfum strength is not readily available in the U.S. It is, to the best of my knowledge, still available in Paris).

Source for Chanel No. 19 image: nordstrom.com.

Share This

I never cease to be amazed by people who switch from a seemingly-unrelated career and go on to create a fabulous line of fragrances. It’s almost like they have to get something out of their system (by something, I mean success in the corporate world) in order to form the foundation for the expression of their true passion of perfumery.

Such was the case with Australian perfumer Renée Griffith. Renée is the owner and founder of Renée, a niche perfumery offering a complete line of lovely perfumes and fragrance products. Renée was a former corporate real estate agent. While vacationing in Bali, she was captivated by the intoxicating fragrance of a tuberose bouquet in the hotel where she was staying. Inspired to recreate this scent, she studied a perfumery book and then took a correspondence course in modern perfumery. She successsfully recreated the scent of the tuberose bouquet in her first fragrance, Tuberose, which she formulated for her wedding. Since then, she has created a total of 7 fragrances, with a product line consisting of perfume, scented candles, body lotion and Lifestyle Scents for the home. The fragrances include:

• Amber Seductive and sensual, Amber combines notes of earthy vetiver, musk and tolu with tea, ginger, cardamom and lime leaves for a rich, warm scent that is truly exotic and intensely captivating.
• L’eau L’eau is the French word for Water. Sheer, clean and soft it’s a dreamy, soothing scent as pure as fresh spring water and ethereal as crystalline mountain air beckoning you to breathe it. Green leaves, air and water are sprinkled with nutmeg, spearmint and basil and cool mint resting on delicate rose and violet feuilles and dewy oakmoss gives a subtle “anytime” scent that is sparklingly refreshing.
• Mediterranean Lily A sublime bounty of soft white blooms of waterlilies, lys blanc, gardenias and jasmine are interlaced with the freshness of italian bergamot and the sensuality of sandalwood transporting you to a magical Mediterranean garden on a sunny day when the warm summer breeze carries the scent of wild flowers through the air. Sophisticated and elegant, super feminine.
• Snowpeach Dreamily delicious, Snowpeach is a luscious, mouth-watering blend of ripe peaches combined with notes of green leaves, delicate orange blossom. Zesty white grapefruit adds a hint of sparkle while seductive undertones of mulberry, hyacinth and musk emerge to further tantalize the senses.
• Tuberose An exotic white floral of alluring and intoxicating tuberose flowers combined with freshness of bergamot, sweet orange blossom, seductive ylang ylang are laced with sensual undertones of musk, amber, moss and vanilla.
• Musk Fresh top notes of italian bergamot, french lavender and sweet orange are blended with exotic spice and the freshness of woody rose de mai, but the real character of the fragrance lies in the base which embodies the warmth and sensuality of creamy musks, earthen woods, amber and the richness of tonka and vanilla.
• Jasmine Jasmine begins with a sparkling blend of bergamot, mandarin, cassis and leafy vines combined with lusciously sweet french jasmine, exotic ylang ylang, tuberose and elegant bulgarian rose unveiling a smooth, mellow base of oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla, tonka, amber and a hint of musk.

My favorite fragrance in this collection is Tuberose. It is a warm, creamy blend of white flowers brightened by orange blossom and anchored with a musky/amber base. I also really like the Mediterranean Lily. It is light and bright and smells very much like a warm summer day. I personally found the Snowpeach to be a little too tutti-fruitti for my taste, but I could see it being very popular for teenage girls. The eau de parfum lasted about 2 hours on my skin, while the Jasmine perfume oil lasted slightly longer (about 3 hours).

Renée perfumes are packaged in chic white boxes tied with black grosgrain ribbon. They may be purchased online at renee.com.au.

Prices:
Parfum Vial Sampler Set - 5 x 1ml $7.95
Mini Fragrance Wardrobe - 5 x 10ml $75
Parfum - 30ml $59
Mini Parfum - 10ml $18.95
Perfume Oil (Jasmine and Musk only) 8ml - $45

image and fragrance notes source: renee.com.au

Share This

Every one of these is as good as it gets, but one gave me an emotion I hadn’t felt for years. It was the thrill of feminine beauty, the pang of pain and longing you get in Rear Window when Grace Kelly breezes in, throws her coat on a chair and saunters over to give James Stewart a kiss….

These are the words used by renowned perfume expert Luca Turin to describe one of Chanel’s six new Exclusif fragrances. Before I reveal which one he is talking about, I want to add that yes, that is what a good fragrance is supposed to do. Ideally, it will stir an emotion or bring up a memory in a way that is immediate and visceral. Kudos to Luca for his magical way of expressing such things.

The fragrance he is referring to is 31 Rue Cambon. As you may recall from my previous post, it is named after Chanel’s original boutique address in Paris. Luca considers it to be the best Chypre in thirty years.

I will defer to Mr. Turin about this fragrance being the best Chypre in thirty years. For my part, I will say that it is simply one of the best fragrances I have smelled in thirty years. With notes of iris, labdanum, jasmine, rose and sandalwood, this fragrance starts off with a poignantly sweet blast of dry iris. It gradually releases its floral heart notes and then seals the deal with the softness of sandalwood.

rue 31 Cambon is one of those fragrances that just keeps getting better and better with each passing hour. I find myself repeatedly smelling my wrist when I wear this scent, always delighted by its lovely character. It already has a place of honor on my list of favorites.

Available at Chanel boutiques. The telephone number for the East 57th street boutique in NYC is (212) 355-5050. They will gladly ship your order.

Price: $175 for 200 ml eau de toilette; $160 for 15 ml perfume.

Source for Rear Window image: amazon.com.

Share This

Here is a video of the first single to be released from Sparks’ 20th album, Hello Young Lovers. It’s called “Perfume.” It’s hip and groovy, like you, dear readers, and will no doubt make you nostalgic for perfumes you haven’t thought of in years! Enjoy!

Share This

It has been 10 years since the design house Lolita Lempicka launched its first fragrance, Lolita Lempicka, the highly successful blend of vanilla, liquorice, greens, florals and musk. To celebrate this tenth anniversary, Lolita Lempicka has created a trio of three new fragrances: “Les Caprices de Lolita” (the Whims of Lolita). The collection includes Violette, a subtle, modern violet fragrance; Réglisse, with notes of liquorice and patchouli; and Amarena, containing notes of sugary almond and white musks. The fragrances are designed to be worn alone or layered in combination.

“Les Caprices de Lolita” will be available in March 2007.

Price: 125 € for the box set, which includes a flacon of Lolita Limpicka 50-ml Eau de Parfum spray , and one 20-ml vaporizer bottle of each Caprice: Violet, Réglisse, and Amarena.

image and information source: aufeminin.com.

Share This

I am noticing an interesting trend in the world of niche perfumery. While once concentrated in French and British locales, there are an increasing number of top-notch niche perfumeries arising in the USA. Many of these are located on the West coast, particularly in California and Oregon.

One such perfumery is elizabethW, located in San Francisco, California. Founder Albert E. Wightman was deeply influenced by his dynamic and free-spirited great-grandmother, Elizabeth, for whom the line is named. He was also influenced by the scent of fresh flowers and herbs he found on Elizabeth’s western ranch during his youth. With his background in architecture, Albert applied his appreciation for careful design to the creation of his perfume line. This aesthetic is reflected in the clean lines and modern packaging of his fragrance, skin care, and home fragrance products.

The elizabethW collections are, in Albert’s words,

clean, simple, sophisticated, elegant, and totally original. They reflect an emphasis on quality and beauty, valuable lessons passed down through the generations from Elizabeth Wightman, my great grandmother.

The Eau de Parfum collection consists of 10 fragrances, each built around a dominant note. While each stands on its own, the fragrances readily lend themselves to layering in order to create one’s own unique blend.

Here are the fragrances, in alphabetical order:

CITRUS VERVAIN: Refreshing, embracing, awakening. Extracts of star ruby grapefruit, mandarin, and lime peel entwine with lemon scented verbena leaves.

LAVENDER: Herbal, meditative, soothing. Dominant lavender notes blend with other herbaceous and woody tones in this distinctly harmonious scent.

LEAVES: Fresh, evocative, clean. A soft, woody base of Atlas cedar and sandalwood balance amber with green, leafy top notes.

LILAC: Romantic, fresh, intensely floral. A single note from boughs of spring-time lilacs brightened with subtle hints of jasmine, neroli, and freesia.

MAGNOLIA: Soft, feminine, sensual. White magnolia petals deepened with saffron and sandalwood, mingle with mimosa and gardenia.

NEROLI CHAMOMILE: Nurturing, tranquil, softly soothing. A floral bouquet of neroli, ylang ylang and iris extracts, enlivened by the rich balsamic, freshly herbal notes and wild roses enhanced with hawthorn.

ROSE: Irresistible, passionate, sophisticated. Moist green notes and wild roses enhanced with hawthorn.

SWEET TEA: Gracious, spirited, elegant. Enticing oriental black teas, juicy fresh Amalfi lemons, and the sweetness of almond honey.

TUBEROSE: Lasting floral, compelling, a classic bouquet. A richly sweet, heady aroma, accented by gardenia, jasmine, amber, and orange flower.

VETIVER: Earthy, woody, confident. An original creation of heavy vetiver, balanced with light, citrus tones and green tints of bergamot from peels of nearly ripe fruit.

I find the entire collection to be light, beautiful and easily wearable. My top three picks are Magnolia, a luscious white floral (think: daytime garden party); Tuberose, a rich, classic floral (think: puttin’ on the Ritz!); and Sweet Tea, a warm, tea-scented fragrance with a little kick of lemon (think: laid-back Saturday afternoon). I like that that this collection has a wide range of scents, from leafy green Leaves to light citrus Citrus Vervain to full-on floral Rose so that there is bound to be something for everyone.

The line is available in select boutiques and online at the elizabethW website.

Price: Full-size 2-oz. Eau de Parfum spray: $35; Travel-size 1/2-oz. Eau de Parfum spray: $20.

Golden Gate Bridge image source: daniel steger at openphoto.net
perfume image source: elizabethW

Share This

“It’s a proper, old-fashioned heavy scent, redolent of evenings of gorgeousness, luxury, decadence and naughtiness,” said Fennell. (from wwd.com)

These are the words used by jewelry designer Theo Fennell to describe his debut fragrance, Theo Fennell Scent, which launched in London this month.

Blended by Christophe Laudamiel of International Flavors & Fragrances, its chypre oriental juice comprises top notes of saffron, cardamom, lily, rose and orchid. At its heart are jasmine sambac, orange flower, cumin and cinnamon notes, while base notes include patchouli, tonka bean, labdanum, sandalwood and benzoin.

…For Scent’s bottle, Fennell, who also designs silverware, plumbed for a heavy glass orb featuring a seal with the brand’s logo. “It is designed to be very simple and very elegant on a woman’s dressing table or wherever she performs her ablutions,” said Fennell. “It’s sophisticated, bold and sexy.”

Scent initially will be available exclusively at Fennell’s London flagship and Harrods department store for six months. It will then be released internationally.

Price: 75ml eau de parfum spray: £68 ($134 at current exchange rates).

image and information source: wwd.com.

Share This

My great love in writing this blog is discovering new (to me) niche perfumeries and sharing them with my readers. Today I will be discussing the French niche perfumery, Téo Cabanel.

The Cabanel company was founded in Algiers around 1893 by a doctor/chemist who created essences for Colognes. The House moved to Paris in 1908, where it became the preferred perfumery of the Duchess of Windsor. Fast-forward to this century, and the House has reasserted itself as a creator of luxurious perfumes made with the finest natural elements. Master perfumer Jean-Francois Latty is the nose behind all three of the fragrances, two of which were launched in 2006.

Julia is a daytime fragrance with top notes of Sicilian Madarin, Rhubarb Greens and Blackcurrant; heart notes of Jasmine, Hyacinth and Violet; and base notes of Sandalwood, Incense, Citrus, Raspberry and Musk.

Oha is an elegant evening fragrance with top notes of Bergamot and Tea; heart notes of Bulgarian and Moroccan Roses, Egyptian Jasmine and Guatemalan Cardamone; and base notes of Vanilla, Iris, Tonka Bean, Exotic Woods and White Musk.

The house’s newest fragrance, Alahine, will be launched this spring. It is a sweet-ambery fragrance inspired by Oriental elegance and Persian palaces. It contains top notes of Bergamot and Lavender; heart note of Bulgarian rose; and base notes of Vanilla, Pepper Tree, Iris, Benzoin and Patchouli.

These fragrances are (or soon will be) available at henri bendel (telephone 800.423.6335). They are also available at Galeries Lafayette.

Price: $180 perfume (15ml); $135 EDP spray (100ml); $96 EDP spray (50 ml).

For more information, please see Téo Cabanel.

image source: osmoz
information source: Téo Cabanel and Osmoz.

Share This

I want to wish all of you a happy and well-scented Valentine’s Day! In honor of this romantic day, I will be breaking from tradition and reviewing a …. pomegranate. Specifically, I am referring to Santa Maria Novella’s Terra Cotta Pomegranate. As you may know, the pomegranate was used as a symbol of fertility in ancient times. To me, it symbolizes infinite possibility as represented by the scores of ruby-red seeds contained within.

This fist-sized clay orb is carefully made by hand and then fired in a kiln until it is half-baked. Then it is immersed in a tub of pomegranate oil essence for a full week, and then fired to completion. This process seals the fragrance inside the pomegranate with the scent lasting 9-12 months.

I had no idea pomegranate oil was so sweet and powdery. The terra cotta pomegranate emits a soft, fruity smell redolent of an autumn day in the country. It is sitting on my desk now, not unlike a pet rock, quietly releasing its fragrance. I like the fact it requires no maintenance and no candles, matches or electricity. It’s refreshingly low tech and quite pleasant to look at.

The SMN Terra Cotta Pomegranate costs $55 and can be purchased in the Santa Maria Novella Los Angeles store (a Sniffa LA destination where we received the royal treatment) and SMN New York City store or online.

Top image: Dance at Bougiva (1883) by Pierre-Auguste Renoir; The Museum of Fine Arts at Boston; source: ibiblio.org.

Bottom image: Photo of terra cotta pomegranate © The Perfume Bee.

Share This