The Perfume Bee

…all the buzz about eco-chic beauty and natural perfume

Aerin Lauder to Launch “Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia” Perfume

Filed under: Perfume, Fragrance Launch — Christine at 7:25 pm on Sunday, April 29, 2007

Estée Lauder Private Collection
Aerin Lauder, granddaughter of make-up maven Estée Lauder, has announced the creation of a new perfume. Christened Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, the fragrance will launch in August:

Its top notes are of neroli, lilac and rosewood; the heart is of tuberose, gardenia, orange flower, jasmine and white lily, and the drydown is of carnation and vanilla bourbon.

The high-end, limited edition fragrance will be available at Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks, and Holt Renfrew. Cost: $300 1oz perfume; $120 2.5oz eau de parfum; $65 1oz eau de parfum; $175 solid perfume; $75 6.7oz body cream (via wwd.com).

To read more about the inimitable Estée Lauder (shown below), please see this informative telograph.co.uk article.

Estée Lauder

Top image photo source: wwd.com
Estée Lauder photo source: telegraph.co.uk
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April 28th Launch: Guerlain ‘Muguet’

Filed under: Perfume, Fragrance Launch — Christine at 8:31 am on Saturday, April 28, 2007

Guerlain 'Muguet'
Today the House of Guerlain is launching an exclusive, limited-edition perfume, Muguet (lily-of-the-valley). It is being released just a few days before May Day, when the French traditionally gift each other with lily-of-the-valley. Muguet will be available from the House of Guerlain in Paris, as well as other Guerlain boutiques worldwide (Bergdorf Goodman; Neiman Marcus, San Francisco; and Toronto).

image and info source: osmoz.com
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International Perfume Museum Re-Opens

Filed under: Perfume, Perfume Events — Christine at 7:49 am on Friday, April 27, 2007

Parfum des femmes de France
Visitors to Grasse, France, will be happy to know that the International Perfume Museum is re-opening its doors:

The world’s most comprehensive museum dedicated to the art of fragrance is re-opening this spring. After extensive refurbishment, the newly expanded 3000m sq museum will maintain its role as guardian to the protection and promotion of the perfume world.

The museum claims to have the world’s most diverse public perfume collection, covering the seduction, treatment and communication aspects of perfumery from ancient times to the present. For more information, please see the International Perfume Museum website.

image source: International Perfume Museum

information source: cosmeticsbusiness.com

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Where are the Honeybees?

Filed under: Perfume — Christine at 8:12 am on Thursday, April 26, 2007

honey bees

My husband and I recently took a leisurely stroll around our neighborhood on a beautiful spring day. At one point, my husband stopped before a flowery hedge and appeared to be examining it intensely.

“What are you looking for?” I asked.

“Bees,” he replied.

And much to our dismay, where normally there would have been dozens of little bees buzzing about, there were none. Not a single bee was to be seen.

As many of you know, there has been an inexplicable disappearance of honeybees throughout America and parts of Europe since last fall. This condition has been labeled “Colony Collapse Disorder” (CCD). Entire colonies disappear from their hives, leaving only the queen and a few worker bees behind.

This situation is alarming at many levels. Obviously, no honey bees=no pollination=no flowers for perfumery (not to mention the devastating impact on the food supply). But the larger implications of the loss of honey bees is even more troubling. What is going on environmentally that is causing these dear little creatures to perish, and what does it mean over the long haul? Are bees today’s “canary in the coal mines?” Are they the sensitive indicators of environmental balance and imbalance? Their disappearance is truly troubling.

Several theories have been set forth to explain their disappearance. Some scientists propose that a bee parasite is making the bees sick. Others suggest that environmental herbicides and pesticides are killing them.

And perhaps most intriguing is a study by German researchers suggesting that the growing use of cell phones could in some way be responsible. Scientists at Germany’s Landau University have discovered that bees refuse to return to their hives when mobile phones are placed nearby. It is thought that radiation from mobile phones interferes with bees’ navigation systems, making them unable to find their way back to their hive. To read more about this, please see the article in The Independent and this short article in the April 20th, 2007 earthweek.com.

You can listen to an episode of the program “To the Point” on Public Radio International (PRI) which discusses Colony Collapse Disorder by clicking here.

This issue is of special concern to The Perfume Bee. And I’m curious about your local bee populations. Have you noticed a decrease in the number of these buzzy little friends in your neighborhood?

One final note: there is a quotation attributed to Albert Einstein making the rounds which may actually be a fabrication. It is as follows:

If the bee disappeared off the surface of the globe then man would only have four years of life left.

The rumor detectives at Snopes.com are fairly certain Einstein never uttered these words. If you’d like to see the rest of the Snopes.com take on this, please click here.

Photo: Stanisa Martinovic for earthweek.com
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The 15th Annual Fragrance Foundation UK “FiFi” Awards

Filed under: Perfume — Christine at 1:42 pm on Wednesday, April 25, 2007

UK FIFI Awards 2007

The Fragrance Foundation UK announced the winners of the 2007 FiFi UK Fragrance Awards (aka, the fragrance Oscars) at an awards ceremony held at London’s Dorchester Hotel on April 23. Winners include:

Best New Prestige Female Fragrance: MAÎTRESSE by Agent Provacateur

Best New Prestige Male Fragrance: TERRE D’HERMÈS by Hermès

Best New Fragrance in Limited Distribution (women): BLACK ORCHID by Tom Ford

Best New Fragrance in Limited Distribution (men): BLUE AGAVA & CACAO by Jo Malone

Best New Fragrance Print Advertisement (female): THE ONE by Dolce & Gabbana

Best New Fragrance Print Advertisement (male): BURBERRY LONDEN FOR MEN by Burberry

Best New Fragrance Packaging (female): PERLES DE LALIQUE by Lalique

Best New Fragrance Packaging (male): PRADA AMBER POUR HOMME by Prada

Best New Fragrance Commercial: THE ONE by Dolce & Gabbana (which you can see here).

The ‘People’s Choice’ Award (voted for by Superdrug customers): Kylie Minogue DARLING by Coty

Best Fragrance Innovation: Christophe Laudamiel and Christophe Hornetz (Thierry Mugler and IFF) for their collaboration on the collection of 15 fragrances based on the film, Perfume.

A portion of the proceeds from the event will be donated to the Teenage Cancer Trust, a charity devoted to improving the lives of teenagers and young adults with cancer.

info source: Cosmetics International
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Yü: Super-Haute Perfume

Filed under: Perfume, Fragrance Launch — Christine at 7:00 pm on Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Yü Perfume

Haute perfume , which translates as rain in Chinese, is the creation of perfumer Cecile Krakower, (Mane, USA). She was given freedom to create without time or cost constraints. The resulting limited-edition fragrance costs $5,000 for 1.7oz eau de parfum. Yes, you read that correctly. This ultra-luxurious fragrance costs $5,000 and is limited to 500 numbered bottles.

has been available at aedes for a few months. It is also also available at Bergdorf Goodman by invitation only and through personal shopper programs. It will launch in Hong Kong’s Lane Crawford in June and debut in Nordstrom in the fall.

Part of what makes this perfume so costly is the innovative extraction technique used in obtaining some of the plant essences. This proprietary technique is called Jungle Essence technology:

Described as an evolution of head-space technology and standard extraction methods, Jungle Essence is a portable process that captures the olfactive integrity of a plant in its natural habitat (via cosmeticworld.com).

The floral fragrance contains notes of genet (broom), champaca, Sicilian bergamot, Floridian tangerine, orange flower absolute, Asian mandarin tree leaf Jungle Essence, African freesia Jungle Essence, Madagascan ylang ylang, Brazilian rosewood leaf, vetyver, Mysore sandalwood and vanilla absolute.

Each raindrop-shaped flacon is numbered and is presented in a lovely, leather-lined birch box.

I am intrigued by this Jungle Essence technology (and whoever came up with that name is a genius!) It seems that it has great potential for preserving the integrity of rare and endangered plant sources. Hopefully the cost of using this technology will come down over time, thereby lowering the cost of perfumes which use it. Very interesting…

image source: vivre.com
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New Niche Perfumery Boutique Opens in Paris:  Evody

Filed under: Perfume, Niche, perfume shopping — Christine at 5:54 pm on Sunday, April 22, 2007

evody Good news for niche-perfumery lovers: There is a new perfume boutique in Paris which will showcase some of the most lovely and hard-to-find niche fragrances in the world. It is called Evody, and is located in Paris’ sixth arrondissement:

In the very heart of Paris, between Notre Dame and Saint Germain des Prés, Evody is a new boutique that will thrill all those who love hard-to-find fragrances. Founded by trainer Régine Droin, Evody’s name comes from a first-century first name meaning ‘on the trail of scent’. This pleasantly cozy space proposes fragrances for you or your home from several alternative brands, including: Etro, Stéphanie de Saint Aignan, The Different Company, Juliette Has a Gun, Comme des Garçons, Acqua Di Parma, Serge Lutens, Linari and Miller Harris. Evody: 63 rue Saint André des Arts, Paris 6è. Tel.: + 33 (0)1 55 42 06 54 (via OsMoz.com).

This is terrific news for niche-perfumery fans such as myself. I look very forward to visiting this boutique and will consider adding it to the next edition of my Perfume-Lover’s Guide to Paris. I would love to hear from any of you who have already been to this boutique! Let us know what it’s like!

image source: OsMoz.com

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The Perfume-Lover’s Guide to Life: Suggestion #6

Filed under: Guide to Life — Christine at 3:27 pm on Thursday, April 19, 2007

Deco Perfume Bottle

Suggestion #6: Have a solid foundation

In perfumery, the foundation of a fragrance is called its base. The elements making up the base are called base notes. These notes are the ones that last the longest and hold the whole composition together.

In life, as in perfumery, it pays to have a solid foundation. When you have a firm base from which to operate, you are less likely to be beaten down by life’s inevitable upsets. Discover whatever it is that helps you feel centered, calm and secure. And then try to do it every day.

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French Lover by Frédéric Malle

Filed under: Perfume, Fragrance Launch — Christine at 5:06 pm on Tuesday, April 17, 2007

Frédéric Malle French Lover

Niche perfume house Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle has announced a new fragrance which will launch in May. Designed by perfumer Pierre Bourdon, it will be called French Lover:

Frédéric Malle’s original idea was to create a fuller-bodied version of the scent Angéliques sous la Pluie. But the creator and the perfumer soon went beyond that concept to come up with a sophisticated men’s scent, ‘super-sensual, but not trashy.’ The ingredients include dazzling green notes of pimento and galbanum, iris, cedar, trimofix, angelica, frankincense and vetiver. Mosses, musks, ambroxan and karanal bestow ‘a kind of plant-based animal quality that immediately evoked the smell of a man’ [for the creators] (via osMoz.com).

It is interesting to note that the idea for this new fragrance began with the delicate and ethereal Angéliques sous la Pluie.

Angeéiques sous La Pluie Created by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, Angéliques sous la Pluie:

plays out like a chamber music arrangement. One detects the sparkling, spicy, tonic notes of this slightly musky flower, softened by a hint of juniper berries and coriander, and drying down to musk and cedar (via editionsdeparfums.com).

This is one of my favorite fragrances to wear when I want a scent that is light and pleasant and sure not to be cloying or overpowering. I will be interested to see how it compares to French Lover, which promises to be much bolder in character. Perhaps it will be the yin to French Lover’s yang.

To read more about this collection, please see my previous Frédéric Malle post.

Cost: 1.7 fl. oz.: €90; 3.4 fl. oz.: €135.

top image source: osMoz.com
bottom image source: editionsdeparfums.com

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Chandler Burr Interviews Marie-Françoise Stouls

Filed under: Perfume, Perfume Talk — Christine at 7:45 pm on Monday, April 16, 2007

Le Bon MarchéNew York Times perfume critic Chandler Burr recently spent some time talking with Marie-Françoise Stouls. Stouls is head of the esteemed beauty department of Paris’ classic department store, Le Bon Marché.

Stouls has been instrumental in making Le Bon Marché a world-class destination for perfume and make-up devotees. In 1998, she oversaw the creation of “Le Théâtre de la Beauté,” literally recreating the floor of beauty from the ground up. During this renovation, she cut way back on the beauty brands carried by the store and began carefully rebuilding the collection. Her emphasis is on niche brands, and niche perfumers continually seek her out in hopes that the store will carry their brand.

Stouls admits to currently being fond of two niche fragrances in particular. The first, Oha, is the dark rose fragrance recently launched by Téo Cabanel. The second, which she is eagerly awaiting, is Vicas, the most recent vintage reissue from Robert Piguet, owner of Fracas and Bandit. To read the whole article, please visit the NY Times.com website.

I found the perfume department at Le Bon Marché to be an absolute delight when I was there a few months ago. It is sparkling and well-lit with the classic and niche perfume lines well-displayed for easy access. The sales attendants were helpful, not at all pushy, and respectful of my desire to proceed at my own pace.

My only caveat is to remember that, while the selection here is fabulous, it is impossible to carry all of the items of each niche perfumery in a department store. In other words, know that you may be missing some of the fragrances in a particular line and that in order to see the whole collection of a perfumery that catches your fancy, it is preferable to go to the brick-and-mortar boutique itself.

Having said that, Le Bon Marché should be high on the list of any perfume-lover’s visit to Paris for its convenience, beauty and well-chosen collection of fragrances.

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