The May 2007 issue of Perfumer & Flavorist magazine has an interesting article by perfume writer Michelle Krell Kydd. It is titled “Exposing the Perfumer: What it means to be a perfumer in the information age and the need to communicate with consumers.”
Kydd looks at the current debate about what classifies a person as a “perfumer.” Classic perfumers such as Jean Guichard, director of Givaudan’s Perfumery School, are clear in their emphasis that “a perfumer needs real [perfume] bases, real knowledge and real experience.” He states, “just because someone can smell well and is adept at mixing accords does not make him/her a perfumer.”
Meanwhile, Kydd refers to non-clasically-trained perfumers as “self-trained fragrance crafters” and “oil mixers”.
This reminds me of a similar debate I experienced when I was studying to be a dietitian twenty years ago. There was a strong movement by the American Dietetics Association and state licensing boards to define who could call themselves a dietitian and those who were “merely” nutritionists. Regulations and licensing requirements became very strict and prescribed. To be a registered dietitian (R.D.) required a 4-year undergraduate degree, including courses in biochemistry, organic chemistry, statistics, economics, english, as well as the multitudinous food and nutrition courses. This was followed by a 1-year dietetic internship in a medical center and passing of a rigorous examination. Then, and only then, could I call myself a dietitian.
At the same time, I empathized with non-classically trained nutritionists. They had valid reasons for entering the field and a different philosophy than the classically-trained RDs. The point being that there was and is room for both types of nutrition professionals to practice their profession. Just because I chose the rigorous, more orthodox route in no way implies that I think other nutritionists should not be allowed to practice.
Similarly, in perfumery there is room for a variety of training and approaches. There will always be those who are drawn toward more classical training, and thankfully there are wonderful schools available for such an education. (Although, having mentioned two of them in her article, Kidd then cryptically added, “Other academic perfumery schools…exist,–but the public doesn’t know about them.” Why the secrecy???)
And there will always be those who choose the path of self-education in perfumery. These individuals spend countless hours blending and learning and experimenting. They read books and work with mentors and participate in active online discussion groups learning this art at their own pace and in their own way.
Which way is better? Neither. The proof, as they say, is in the pudding. Show me a lovely fragrance that puts a lift in my step and makes my heart sing, and I can promise my thoughts will not be focused on the training of the person who made it. I will instead be giving them my thanks!
This article can be purchased at Perfume&Flavorist.com.
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