The Perfume Bee

The use of nano-particles is becoming extremely widespread in in cosmetics, skin-care products and sunscreens. But what are nano-particles, and more importantly, are they safe?

First of all, if you are not familiar with the term “nano-particles,” you are in good company. According to Consumer Reports (July 2007), more than 80 percent of Americans have heard little or nothing about nanotechnology. This is probably due to the fact that manufacturers are not required to disclose the presence of nano-particles on their labels.

Nanoparticles are small particles either reduced from standard materials or created as new fabrications. They are about 100,000 times smaller than the width of a human hair and are currently used in everything from medicine to housepaint to cosmetics.

Unfortunately, only a tiny percentage (perhaps a nano-percentage?) of the nanotech research funding is being used to explore the risks of nanotechnology. This is troubling, because several worrisome findings from the limited laboratory and animal research so far indicate the following:

• Certain benign materials can become toxic when nanosized because microscopic particles tend to react more readily with human tissues and other substances.
• Nanoparticles can enter the body and its vital organs, including the brain, much more easily than can larger particles. And some are now used in food additives, cosmetics, and other products that are ingested or applied directly to the skin.
• Some nanomaterials seem to linger in the environment — especially in the water supply, where studies suggest they can damage the ecosystem.
• Fullerenes, composed of spherically arranged carbon atoms used in cosmetics and other products, might damage cells in fish, and harm human liver cells and DNA.

(from Consumer Reports.org).

With cosmetics and sunscreen, the main concern is the potential absorption of the nano-particles through the skin and into the bloodstream. Once in the blood, nanoparticles can be carried to cells throughout the body. Nanoparticles are able to enter the body and its vital organs, including the brain, much more easily than larger particles can.

This is problematic, because the smaller the particle, the more atoms there are on its surface as opposed to being tucked away inside. Increased number of surface atoms leads to greater reactivity with other compounds. This means that elements that may normally benign substances might become toxic when nano-sized. Further, particles that are known to be harmful at regular size can become even more dangerous as nanoparticles.

And, perhaps most alarming of all, the Food and Drug Administration is not required to review the safety of cosmetic ingredients before they are sold. The cosmetic industry’s Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board has not even evaluated the safety of nanoingredients.

So what are we to do? First of all, we can check labels for the few products that actually mention the presence of nano-particles. Some suncreens and skincare products do list the use of nano-ingredients. A list of 470 products labeled as containing nano-ingredients can be seen at the Wilson Center’s Project on Emerging Nanotechnologies website.

Other helpful websites include:

• Consumer Reports.org
• NPR article: Safety of Nano-Cosmetics Questioned
• International Council on Nanotechnology (ICON)

And finally, here is a link to a June 15, 2007 National Public Radio podcast on Talk of the Nation/Science Friday, hosted by Ira Flatow “The Science of the Very Very Very Small.

For now, the best we can do is try to stay informed and make good choices based on the knowledge we do have.

image rendered by Matthew Meineke;
source: Gezelter Lab, University of Notre Dame

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The May 2007 issue of Perfumer & Flavorist magazine features an article titled, “Topics in Perfumery: Creating Effective Natural Fragrances.” Writer Helen Feygin looks at how large fragrance companies are responding to the public’s desire for 100% natural fragrances. Acknowledging that “natural personal care is no longer a small niche business,” Feygin points out that using an entirely natural scent palette poses challenges for modern perfumers. She states:

There is no blueberry essential oil available to make a fragrance smell like blueberries, nor are there grape or raspberry oils. Matching these fruits with a palette of synthetic materials such as methyl anthranilate and raspberry ketone would be achievable, if not easy, for most perfumers. But limiting oneself solely to naturals, this process becomes a true test of creativity [emphasis added].

I love that she highlights the importance of creativity needed to work with natural essences. Of course it would be easier for a perfumer to add a few synthetic drops of this and that to achieve a particular scent (as you may recall from an earlier post, Lily-of-the-valley’s beautiful scent, for example, cannot be captured through distillation. Lily-of-the-valley is a synthetic note in perfume). But to create something similar to this fragrance using natural ingredients requires ingenuity of the highest order. This is where the joy and artistry of natural perfumery shows its true colors.

Feygin adds:

The complications in working with natural materials are well compensated by the sparkling elegance they impart to fragrances. Wonderful fragrances can be created using only naturals, the way it has been done since perfumery’s dawn.

But she then states:

Synthetics, on the other hand, are essential as well—they extend perfumers’ palettes, adding complexity and diversity…In truth, there is room in the marketplace for safe synthetics and naturals, often complementarily blended together in the service of a fantastic fragrance.

Until those last few lines, I was in agreement with Feygin, who is the founder and principal of a fragrance development company. But nonetheless, I see it as a good sign when the major perfumers are taking an interest in naturals. May this be the beginning of a long and fruitful dialog.

The full article may be purchased from Perfumerflavorist.com or read in GCI magazine.

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I am coming to the the wonderful realization that Portland is a veritable mecca of natural perfume, skin care and cosmetics manufacturers. Last week, I had the distinct pleasure of meeting Kate O’brien, founder and President of Alima Cosmetics, at her office in Portland, Oregon. Kate’s mineral cosmetics use 100% natural, cruelty-free minerals and pigments. They provide sun protection, anti—inflammatory benefits and beautiful, natural color. All products are entirely additive- and allergen-free and are safe for even the most sensitive skin.

This extensive line includes over 250 products, including foundation, balancing powder, concealer, color balancing powder, eyeshadow, eyeliner, blush, and a variety of brushes and accessories. A new lipstick collection is being formulated and is due to launch this fall.

A peek into her laboratory showed a vast array of minerals waiting to be blended into a wide color palette of beautiful shades. Kate works with her charming 19-year old daughter, Sara, as well as several other friendly employees. The business, founded in 2004, is doubling in size every year. Finding a larger manufacturing facility is a high priority on Kate’s to-do list. Meanwhile, Alima products are shipped to all 50 states and to more than 25 countries internationally.

This was my first experience with mineral cosmetics, and Kate’s trained eye helped her choose the perfect shades for me: Pongee foundation, Carnation matte blush, and Cocoa matte eyeshadow. Fortunately, the Alima website has a very useful “choosing colors” page that can help anyone decide on just the right hue. And samples of nearly every product are available for $1 each.

These products are simply amazing. They come in such rich yet harmonious colors, and they blend onto the skin as smoothly as silk. A little bit goes a really long way. And the fact that they are so safe to use, in addition to being beautiful, is the icing on the cake.

And just how safe are they? I am happy to report that Alima is one of only two American companies to be awarded the prestigious BDIH “Certified Natural Cosmetics Seal.” This seal is a well-recognized indicator of authentically natural cosmetics in Europe. It ensures that certified products contain only the safest, purest natural ingredients and are produced and packaged in an environmentally and socially responsible manner.

The rigorous BDIH guidelines go beyond the European Union Cosmetics Directive. That directive has banned more than 1000 chemicals considered unsafe to be used in cosmetics. On the other hand, the Food and Drug Administration has banned 10.

Kate explains that Alima is a Sufi term referring to the divine wisdom in even the smallest of things. I find it to be a very fitting name for a wonderful company!

Alima products can be ordered online at Alimacosmetics.com.

photo © 2007 The Perfume Bee

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“Fairchild” perfume is a beautiful fragrance created by natural perfumer Anya McCoy. This perfume contains three different jasmine blossoms: grandi, sambac and aruiculatum. These are blended with the lush ylang ylang and champaca flowers, which are combined with citrus notes and ambergris (and sea shells!)

Fairchild opens with a bright, lemony-citrus accord. After about 20 minutes, it transforms into a soft, white floral embrace. As I am finding to be the case with natural perfumes, the transformation from initial top-notes to final dry-down can be quite dramatic. I believe it has a lot to do with the synergy between the natural ingredients and the wearer’s own body chemistry. In this case, the dry down yielded a delicious, hypnotic, sensual fragrance with terrific staying-power.

As with all of her products, Fairchild is made from rare aromatics and unusual tinctured essences. It is blended in organic alcohol, uses beach-harvested ambergris, and is tested on people, not animals.

Fairchild is available online at Anya’s Garden.com. Anya is currently having a first-ever sale: Parfum extrait 3.5 ml - $36.00 sale price, eau de Parfum 15 ml spray - $72.00 sale price, Eau de Parfum sampler 2 ml Spray - $15.00 sale price.

photo source: Anya’s Garden

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About this time every June, my dear mother-in-law invites me to join her at her club for the annual Mother/Daughter luncheon. It is a very genteel, panty-hose-and-pearls event that takes place in a lovely garden setting. While white gloves and hats are no longer required, a certain amount of decorum is called for.

What fragrance does one wear to such an event? My eyes scanned my collection this morning and quickly landed on a recent sample from Liz Zorn Perfume. I took off the cap, sniffed, and knew I had a winner.

With the enigmatic name of Jazz Trio #1, this is the perfect fragrance to wear to a garden party. Her description reads:

This is a classic jasmine scent, based on a natural Jasmine Absolute, full, rich and a bit earthy, grounded in a warm lush Indian Sandalwood and topped with the essence of Mandarin. Additional notes of Ginger, Benzoin of Siam and Musk Ambrette Seed lend a touch of amber and musk to the dry down.

This beautiful perfume opens with a rush of jasmine that draws you in and doesn’t let you go. It blooms on the skin in a soft, inviting manner as the warm ginger and sandalwood gently unfold. It lasted on me for several hours, and did not compete with the flavors of the meal in the least.

Happily, at the luncheon I managed to use the right fork and wear the right fragrance. All in all, a delightful day!

Jazz Trio #1 is available at Liz Zorn Perfume. Cost: 4-ml Parfum Extrait, $60 (current special includes free perfume-mini with purchase of extrait, $18 value); 1/4-oz. EDP spray, $30.

I invite you to stay tuned for my upcoming interview with perfumer Liz “Zz” Zorn!

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Today was one of those absolutely perfect days that Portland offers up like a precious jewel. Eighty degrees, no humidity, a light breeze, blue sky, and flowers blooming everywhere we looked. I had the rare good fortune of walking downtown with my two teen-aged sons (rare because they would so much rather be with their friends before the jobs and vacations of summer begin).

We turned the corner and came upon a Flower Festival at Pioneer Square, fondly known as “Portland’s Living Room.” There were gigantic pods of brightly-colored flowers scattered around the brick-lined square. It was so beautiful — like a visual perfumer’s palette in supersized 3-D.

The boys yielded and gave me about 3 minutes to take pictures (maybe 4 minutes), so here’s what I got:

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Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words, and a video is worth even more. Here is a short video clip of natural perfumer Mandy Aftel, of Aftelier Perfumes, that I thought you would enjoy. It’s a little confusing in that Mandy mentions Vetiver in the perfume formula she calls “Absolutely Audrey,” but the written recipe indicates Vanilla. Regardless, it’s a good clip:

Mandy Aftel on SF television

Thanks to Anya, at Anya’s garden.com for the tip!

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Strange Invisible Perfumes is a wonderful niche perfumery founded in 2000 by Alexandra Balahoutis. Located in Los Angeles, California, Strange Invisible Perfumes offers a line of completely natural, botanical perfumes that are handcrafted using the finest ingredients. Alexandra uses the gentle process of hydrodistillation to obtain the essential oils from the plants. This procedure maintains the subtle nuances of the oils.

Strange Invisible Perfumes are either

• organic
• wild-crafted
• pesticide-free
• or biodynamically cultivated.

The gentle care combined with the high quality ingredients and Alexandra’s poetic artistry result in very unique and beautiful fragrances. I sampled three of the newest perfumes in the Signature Collection; they launched in 2006.

The first was Moongarden. This lush, heady floral perfume contains notes of tuberose, jasmine, pikake and African resins. The name, Moongarden, evokes the white, night-blooming blossoms which are so opulent. This fragrance was very indolic when I first applied it, but after about 30 minutes it began to bloom into an elegant, rich fragrance. It lasted several hours, and continued to become more delightful as time went by.

The second fragrance, Magazine Street, captures the brazen, romantic energy of New Orleans. Its notes are magnolia, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver and botanical musk. It started out very musty and sweet, with the vetiver and patchouli notes dominating. And then, fifteen minutes later, it turned into a soft, woodsy, floral wonder. Of the three fragrances I sampled, I think this would appeal equally to both men and women.

An added bonus: Eight percent of retail sales from every 1/4 fl. oz. bottle of Magazine Street supports the Katrina relief work of Common Ground Collective, a non-profit organization providing immediate aid and long-term support to sustainably rebuild devastated communities in New Orleans.

The third fragance was Prima Ballerina. It has notes of Egyptian and Turkish roses, Greek sage, lime, and botanical musk. This is a rose-lover’s delight that smells like genuine, old-fashioned, fragrant roses. And this happy, soaring fragrance really does conjure up the graceful image of a Prima Ballerina in Grand jeté, floating above the ground. It is my favorite of the three, one I could easily enjoy wearing on a regular basis.

Cost: 1/4 fl. oz. flacon of perfume can be purchased for $185 at select Barneys New York locations, the Strange Invisible Perfumes boutique and perfumery in Los Angeles (tel. 310-314-1505) or online at www.siperfumes.com. Sample vials can be purchased online for $7.

perfume image source: www.siperfumes.com

Ballerinas: Photographer, Jeff Medaugh, 2006. This file is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 2.0 License (cc-by-sa-2.0).

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Long-time readers of The Perfume Bee may have recently noticed a change in content as I write more about natural and organic fragrances and less about synthetic perfumes.

This shift is entirely intentional.

You see, I have switched to wearing only natural perfumes in my own life, and I feel compelled and delighted to write about these fragrances in this blog.

The reasons for this shift are both simple and complex, which I will address in a future post. But let it suffice to say that this decision comes after much careful thought and consideration.

As you know, I absolutely LOVE fragrance. And the thought of living a fragrant-free lifestyle was abhorrent to me, not to mention downright sad. Somehow I equated going green with going fragrance-free.

Fortunately, I was wrong. It is not an either/or proposition. Talented perfumers around the world are creating astonishingly beautiful natural fragrances that are both safe and lovely. I have had the very good fortune to begin sampling these fragrances and have gotten to know some of the perfumers through lively email and phone conversations.

In upcoming posts, I will share these discoveries and perfume reviews and interviews with you as I always have. I will also discuss the natural/organic dialog that is taking place in the world of perfumery and cosmetics.

And, finally, I am expanding my coverage to include discussion of natural cosmetics and personal care. These are a natural extension of my interest in eco-chic beauty. My focus will continue to be on perfume, but when I come across fabulous finds in the “organic beauty” category, I won’t be able to resist sharing them with you.

I know this is a lot to take in. But I try to live an integrated life and this new orientation is reflective of that principle. So, I warmly invite you to consider The Perfume Bee as your “go-to” source for all the buzz on eco-chic beauty and natural perfume. And, as always, I encourage you to share your thoughts with me.

Love,
Christine

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For those of you lucky enough to live in NYC, Barney’s is having a fun event tomorrow. Our dear friends at Sniffapalooza share this announcement:

You know we love wonderful products that smell great and get results, and one of our favorite new lines is This Works! We’re really jazzed because This Works creator Kathy Phillips is making a rare personal appearance this Friday, 6/15, at Barneys, Madison Avenue @ 61st St., from 12 noon to 3pm.

Kathy Phillips is also Health & Beauty Director for Vogue Asia, and she’s spent years examining and researching beauty products. So when she was ready to produce her own line, she knew exactly how she wanted to proceed and what materials she wanted to use. The result is an extraordinary collection of body and skincare formulated using 100% natural plant oils. Everything is 100% preservative-free and hand-blended at 15% - 100% concentrations, which means that they are truly powerful, effective and therapeutic. She decided to call the line This Works, because it really does!

Kathy will be offering private, 15-minute consultations, and with a purchase of $100, you will receive a This Works Deep-Calm Bath and Shower gel, a $35 value. The Deep-Calm products are a blend of Lavender, Chamomile, and Vetiver, and yes, this is the shower gel that’s getting all the buzz in beauty magazines as a Summer cult-favorite!

Other blends are Energy Bank (to give you energy), which is a meld of Patchouli and Geranium, and In the Zone (to keep you focussed), which is Frankincense and Eucalyptus. Some of the most popular products are Enjoy Really Rich Lotion, Stretch Mark Oil, Skin Deep Dry Leg Oil, Burning Essences, Bath & Shower Oil, Muscle Therapy, Hot Stone Burner, Travel and Survive kits (these are amazing, you must try the Eye Serum, Turbo Balm, and Quick Spritz!), Bottle Bank, and Candles.

So please stop by the Apothecary at Barneys on Friday, and join your Sniffapalooza friends as we discover this innovative new approach to skincare. There will be plenty of samples on hand to take home. And you’ll recognize our friend Francisco Diaz, who many of you met at Takashimaya at our Spring Sniffapalooza when This Works launched.

Barneys New York adds: “Learn about aromatherapy and its benefits as [Kathy] presents This Works’ new skin care products. Also receive a reflexology treatment. Please call 212.833.2020 for an appointment.”

Friday, June 15th
Barneys, Madison Avenue @ 61st St.
12:00 PM - 3:00 PM

Have fun, and let me know what you think of these products! I have not yet tried them, and I would love to know what you think.

image source: Barneys

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