The Perfume Bee

Please join me as I continue my interview with Liz Zorn, founder of Liz Zorn Perfume. (To read Part I of this interview, please click here).

The Perfume Bee: Liz, have you considered teaching perfumery classes at your farm or boutique?

Liz Zorn: No.

Bee: You use the terrific term “Aroma Artist” to describe yourself. Can you tell us what that means to you?

Liz: That changes. Aroma Artist is merely an extension of the other arts in my life: painting, music and writing. To me art is art. It doesn’t really need a lot of description. You know it when you see it, or smell it, for that matter.

Bee: I imagine your graphic design background plays a large role in the aesthetic of your bottles and packaging. Do you do all the design work yourself?

Liz: All of the labeling, web site, etc. are from my own creations. But as far as my professional design work goes, I am not a commercial artist, but a visual / graphic artist. Working in areas such as printmaking and photography. I started out as a composition artist, but spent the next thirty years as a painter. My designs for the packaging etc. are more about personal taste. I like modern, clean designs. Solids instead of patterns, etc.

Bee: Liz, you are also a mixed media artist. Where can we see examples of your work?

Liz: Most of my work (aside from what I have in storage) is in private collections. I am not exhibiting now. When I decided to go full time with the perfumery, I ended many long term relationships with galleries and art dealers who carried my work. I still take appointments here at my studio, and have a revolving exhibit of artwork in the boutique. Occasionally I will accept an invitation to exhibit. With perfumery being such an influence right now. My next visual artistic venture is likely to be a photographic series inspired by scent.

Bee: I get the sense that you are a person who is always experimenting, exploring, and pushing the boundaries. All good attributes of a perfumer! To what or whom do you attribute these qualities?

Liz: I am inspired by positive action. Goodness, and a healthy dose of curiosity. I love my work. When you have a healthy attitude the possibilities are endless. I also admire people of great diversity and vision.

I am a total science junkie, and have been in love with Richard Feynman for many years. He was a brilliant man, and his interests were all over the place. My grandfather was an inventor, and had a Willy Wonkaish, workshop that I spent a lot of time in when I was a young girl.

Bee: What do you do to help keep you grounded, when you have so many projects going at once?

Liz: I hang out with my cats and Mr. Z. Read. Dance. Go for a swim (summertime). Take a bubble bath. Have dinner with a friend, Write a new song, or just play guitar. It can be anything really. I am pretty flexible.

Bee: What describes you best: High energy or Super-high energy?!?

Liz: Super High Energy and No Energy.

It’s a mix. I believe that the energy of inspiration is a gift. If it is flowing like a river, ride it out. It’s like waking up everyday with “Beginners Mind.” If you are open and clear headed, with a healthy sense of adventure, anything is possible. Whatever you need will come to you. If you need to be in high gear, you will be in high gear. If you need to be mellow, you will be mellow. It is all about what we set for ourselves, our intention. Being aware of how we think and how we act. The flow of energy can change many times throughout a day.

Bee: Is there anything else you would like to share with us?

Liz: Be Peace, Pass It On…….

Bee: Thank you, Liz. It has been a delight talking to you. We wish you and Liz Zorn Perfume all the very best!

To learn more about Liz Zorn Perfume, you may visit the website.

Share This

Liz Zorn of Liz Zorn Perfume is a natural perfumer extraordinaire. Part artist, part musician and part visionary, Liz creates her beautiful perfumes in Morrow, Ohio. She has been making natural perfumes for several years and opened her boutique, Zz’s Petals Parfume Moderne, in 2006.

Liz and I spoke by phone and email. She is very articulate, refreshingly candid, and quite passionate about perfumery. Join me as we get to know more about Liz and her views on making perfume.

The Perfume Bee: Hi, Liz. How long have you been creating perfumes?

Liz Zorn: I became interested in essential oils and using them to create personal fragrances in my teens. I continued to read and study over the years. Creating scented gifts for friends and occasionally a custom perfume.

As with a lot of folks, I did some soul searching after 9/11. I decided to focus more seriously on my music (another love of mine) and to see where perfumery would take me. By then I had a pretty good working knowledge of the craft. I have been traveling down that road ever since.

Bee: What is the process of making perfume like for you? Do you get hit with sudden inspirations at odd times, or do you work more methodically?

Liz: For the most part I start with an idea, and try to build a scent around it. It can be anything, from trying to capture my grandmother’s laugh, to the scent patterns of a color.

Bee: How do you source your ingredients? What are the criteria you use?

Liz: I have no stone written formula for that. I buy materials from people who have the best of what I am looking for. It can be a small supplier, or a large distiller. My primary guide is my nose. Whatever the material, it has to meet my brain’s expectations of what a particular thing should smell like. Quality is always my first rule. Get that right and everything else will fall in line.

Bee: Have you ever made what you thought was a real clunker, and it turned out to be a winner? Or vice-versa?

Liz: Yes, this can happen more often that one might think. Particularly when working with natural materials, because they can take their own sweet time revealing their secrets. Not all perfumes age at the same rate, either. I have created perfumes that smelled quite raw after a couple months of aging, and just divine after a year or two.

Bee: What is your philosophy regarding the use of synthetics in fragrances?

Liz: I am a firm believer in balance. I believe that there is room at the table for all. I am very excited that there are so many independent perfumers working today. Creating beautiful perfumes that people love. This crosses all philosophies: from mainstream to niche, natural or synthetic and to a mix of both. Every time something good happens for a small perfumer like myself I take it as a personal success. I love to see others doing well, and enjoying their work. It makes my work so much more meaningful.

Bee: You and your husband own an organic farm called Peace Angel Farm. How does this impact your perfumery?

Liz: Actually, Mr. Z owns the farm, and is the grower. I take none of the credit for his hard work. As far as impacting my perfumery, this is my home, and I feel blessed to be living here.

Bee: Do you distill and tincture some or most of your perfumery ingredients yourself?

Liz: I have distilled some things in the past. But, I am doing less and less of that now. I purchased a new distiller last year and have yet to establish an area to set it up. I do tincture quite a bit. I use a lot of dried organic fruits, and herbs, most of which I purchase elsewhere. I use exotic and tropical things that are not grown in this area, or available as a natural aroma note.

Bee: What is the most unusual item you have ever tinctured?

Liz: I have tinctured a lot of things. But nothing really strikes me as unusual. Dirt maybe. Cat hair, all sorts of dried sea veggies, whatever peaks my curiosity, I will plop a bit of it into a jar of alcohol just to see what happens…….

Bee: Your boutique, Zz’s Petals Parfume Moderne, is located just north of Cincinnati. If we can’t make it to Ohio, are there other stores where we can find your perfumes?

Liz: We are working on that now. We had initially begun to accept inquiries from other retailers, but realized that we needed more preparation. I have a long list of folks both in the US and Europe who have been waiting for us to set up a wholesale plan. We are also looking into other areas where we would like to be represented. A lot is set to happen in the next few months, but I can’t really get into it all now.

In the meantime. The perfumes are available on our web site: lizzorn.com, and we do offer samples.

Bee: Which is your personal favorite fragrance in your collection?

Liz: The next one. I am always in love with whatever I am working on at the time. I wear it, test it and get personally involved with its energy and vitality. Then I let it go and move on to the next adventure. I am a process artist all the way. I have no problems letting my babies go.

But to be more accurate: When I want to wear perfume, I usually mix together a few drops from a couple of my pre-made diluted bases, and dab it on. I could wear something different everyday. Today I am wearing a blend of six different mosses, with a mixed wood/amber base. I smell like I’ve been rolling in the dirt.

Bee: (LOL at the image!)

Do you make bespoke fragrances?

Liz: The short answer is yes. But for the most part in a less involved way than you might think. Someone will come in to the boutique and ask for a Sandalwood and Vanilla, or something simple like a three or four note scent that contains common ingredients, like patchouli or lavender. If I don’t have that as a fragrance I will make it for them. This happens a lot. People like familiar things. Particularly scents that evoke memories.

Occasionally I will design a complex fragrance. But am doing less and less of that, due to the demands of the business as a whole.

…coming tomorrow, Part II: Liz discusses her art, the source of her inspiration, and the importance of being in the flow…

photo source: Liz Zorn

Share This

Natural perfumery Scent Systems is a luxurious natural perfume house located in London, England. Founded in 2003 by Hiram Green, Scent Systems perfumes use the best quality natural fragrant oils sourced from around the world to produce high-end, entirely natural perfumes.

Scent Systems features the exquisite creations of perfumer George Dodd. In 2005, Dodd developed the Scent Systems bespoke perfume service. Most recently, he has developed Scent Systems first ready-to-wear perfume collection, the Floral Collection.

The Floral Collection is a range of five floral perfumes made from entirely natural ingredients:

Flowers have been used as the inspiration for many perfumes throughout the 20th century. Single floral note perfumes have been very popular as they are easy for us to understand: they simply remind us of a particular flower. However, none of the popular floral perfumes of the last century was made using exclusively natural ingredients.

Our floral perfumes use new distillation methods that are much gentler than traditional methods. The result is a range of perfumes that are a synergy of intuitive perfume-making and advanced scent oil technology. They form the summit of technical perfumery. (via Scent-Systems)

All five of these perfumes are quiet lovely. I found Wild Violet to be the most compelling and unusual of the collection. Wild Violet contains:

• Top notes: Indian Flowers, Rose
• Middle notes: Orris fractions, Champaca Absolute, Scottich Myrica
• Base notes: Mysore Sandalwood, Plant Musk

It opens with a very wet, green, earthy, pungent scent. It is very much like coming upon a cluster of wild violets in a misty alpine meadow.

In a short while, it loses its sharpness and turns much softer and more floral. In its final dry-down, Wild Violet yields delicate, slightly powdery notes, giving it a delicious velvety finish.

This is a beautiful perfume. It is complex and well-balanced with a hint of mystery. Wild Violet is a fragrance that is not overly feminine and should appeal equally to both men and women.

Scent Systems perfumes are available online at Scent-Systems.com.

Price: 17 ml natural perfume, £229.00.
It should be noted that web orders shipped outside the UK will be deducted 17.5% VAT (value added tax)

Website exclusive: A Sample Box of all five floral perfumes is available for £34.00. It contains 5 x 0.5 ml glass vials of natural perfume filled with enough fragrance to last a few days.

image source: Scent Systems

Share This

Last Saturday night I attended a festive evening soiree and wanted to wear a suitably dressy fragrance. I chose “Whole Notes,” a floral oriental perfume from Canadian perfumer Lyn Ayre of Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfume.

Whole Notes has notes of: Bergamot, Linden Blossom, Pink Lotus, Mimosa, Black Currant Bud, Oud, Clary Sage absolute, and Labdanum.

This beautiful fragrance turned out to be the perfect choice. Whole Notes is subtly elegant and does not overpower even on the sultriest of summer evenings. It opens with a light kiss of Linden Blossom and then deepens into the sweet, heady Mimosa and Pink Lotus notes. The woody, resinous labdanum pulls it together nicely, and contributes to a fairly long-lasting drydown (about 2 hours).

Whole notes is available online at ScentofNature.net.

Cost: 10 ml - $37.50; 33 ml - $65; 60 ml - $110.

image source: i-stockphoto.com, copyright Aleksey Telnov

Share This

After reading yesterday’s post, you will be aware that phthalates in perfume and other fragranced products are toxic. Consumer Reports Winter 2007 describes some studies that support that statement:

In rodent studies, phthalates have caused testicular injury, liver injury, and liver cancer. We found no such clear hazards in human research.

But we did find studies suggesting that phthalates may be associated with other health issues, including the following four examples from one source alone, EHP [Environmental Health Perspectives], which is a leading journal published by the National Institutes of Health.

In 2000, EHP published a small study that said elevated blood levels of phthalates were associated with premature breast development in young girls.

Another report in 2003 found that men with higher concentrations of two phthalate breakdown products in their urine were more likely to have a low sperm count or low sperm motility.

A study published in 2005 said women with higher levels of four phthalate compounds in their urine during pregnancy were likelier to give birth to boys with smaller scrotums.

And a 2006 report cited low testosterone levels in male newborns exposed to higher levels of phthalates in breast milk.

This is just the tip of the iceberg of studies describing the ill effects of phthalates and other chemicals found in modern perfume and cosmetics. As a mother of two sons, I find these studies particularly disturbing. In the midst of compiling research to share with you, I came across a very cogent article written by the wise people at RealMama.org.

Titled, “Chemicals in Cosmetics,” the article does a masterful job of pulling together the latest scientific information on the health risks of chemicals in beauty products. It also contains a very useful list of links to the original scientific sources. Here is what the article says about endocrine-disruptors:

The endocrine system is a complex network of glands and hormones that regulates many of the body’s functions, including growth, development maturation, and reproduction. The endocrine glands release carefully-measured amounts of hormones into the bloodstream that act as natural chemical messengers, traveling to different parts of the body in order to control and adjust many life functions. The theory concludes that chemicals, or endocrine disruptors, when absorbed into the body either mimic or block the appropriate amount of hormones and disrupt the body’s normal function.

The entire article may be read at Realmama.org/archives. I encourage you to take a look — it’s a real eye-opener.

Share This

Please join me as I continue my Q and A with Alexandra Balahoutis, founder of Strange Invisible Perfumes. To read Part I of this interview, please click here.

Bee: What advice do you have for natural perfumers just starting out?

Alexandra: Don’t do it! Just kidding. Beware of bad information. Beware of dishonest vendors or those who do not know what they are selling. Find a way to achieve the note that you want to include.

Don’t listen when people tell you that a natural perfume can never perform as well as one that contains synthetics. Chances are, they are selling synthetics or products that contain them. Remember that synthetics are less expensive and easier to work with. That is why many companies use them.

If you like synthetics, use them but don’t lie about it. Don’t believe the hype about what makes a “nose.” Do not pursue some fancy, esoteric identity. Just make beautiful compositions. Affectation spoils it.

Bee: What have you found most surprising about being a perfumer and/or boutique-owner?

Alexandra: How bad I am with remembering names.

Bee: Your current collection currently has over twenty perfumes. Do you have a personal favorite?

Alexandra: It changes hourly. They are like children. I have no favorites but I am more compatible with some than with others.

Bee: You have a fascinating way of developing custom perfumes. Could you please share what that involves?

Alexandra: I must become well acquainted with a person and ask them all kinds of questions. When we are finished with our conversation, I know everything about their sensory preferences and the concepts and places that excite them. I view each subject as a figure with a philosophy to impart as well as tastes to reveal. I learn a lot listening to people speak about their ideals and what delights their senses.

Bee: What is new and up-and-coming at Strange Invisible Perfumes?

Alexandra: Quite a bit. Eau de parfum, highly addictive body products of unbelievable purity, and the usual new releases. The first is a wild composition inspired by the tropics. All I can say is it’s so enticing and nectar-like that it takes considerable restraint not to drink it.

Bee: In addition to your LA Boutique and your on-line store, where else are your perfumes currently available?

Alexandra: Select Barneys New York locations, Turpan (Los Angeles) and Quartier 206 in Berlin.

Bee: As a company, can you tell us what steps you are taking towards being “green?”

Alexandra: My staff cares deeply about the environment. Like me, they are personally and professionally committed to being green. We make sure that our modus operandi honors this commitment: we use biodegradable peanuts instead of Styrofoam to ship our packages, recycle and reuse as much as possible, and insist on earth-friendly cleaners for our office, lab and boutique. We found these great biodegradable corn plastic cups and utensils, and always use them when hosting events at our boutique. We also cater our events with delicacies and organic produce from local suppliers.

Obviously, the biggest step is making sure that we put out a green product – one that is completely natural, strictly botanical and free from synthetic chemicals that are often toxic and non-biodegradable. I use 100% organic grape alcohol as a base in my perfumes and work with distillers who supply organic, wildcrafted or biodynamically grown ingredients.

I also felt it was essential to go the green route with product packaging for our new lines launching in the Fall. Being a botanical perfumery, deep appreciation and respect for nature is at the crux of our identity and we’re always looking for more ways to enact this devotion.

Bee: Do you have any closing thoughts?

Alexandra: It is so lovely that people are truly beginning to understand that there can be no exceptional products without exceptional ingredients.

Bee: Thank you, Alexandra! We wish you and everyone at Strange Invisible Perfumes all the best!

Share This

I am a self-avowed Orange Blossom fan, so when it was time to choose one of Natural Perfumer JoAnne Bassett’s beautiful fragrances to review, it was on obvious choice: Petit Trianon. Part of the Royal Collection, Petit Trianon contains notes of Orange Blossom absolute, Ambrette, Lavender vera, Black Spruce and others.

This well-blended and elegant fragrance is a delight to the senses. The Orange Blossom top note gives it a warm, sunshiney beginning. I detect a mysterious cinnamon note in the middle, and then it dries down to a very soft, delicious classic floral perfume. I found myself repeatedly sniffing my wrist on this one — it’s truly a happy and beautiful fragrance. Two thumbs up, JoAnne!

To read more about JoAnne Bassett and her line of natural perfumes, please check out this wonderful interview by Joyce on Noteworthy Fragrances.blogspot.com.

Petit Trianon is available online at JoAnneBassett.com.
Cost: Petit Trianon, 1/4-oz. parfum, $145; 1-oz. EDP, $75.

Orange blossom and oranges, Photo by Ellen Levy Finch, freely licensed under Wikimedia Commons.

Share This

Organic Perfumery Rich Hippie has released a new perfume called Flower Child. This fragrance is described as:

Light, airy, sexy and sweet floral with Albanian Orris Root, Bulgarian Rose, Turkish Rose, Madagascan Rose Geranium and Croatian Lavender Flower.

I found this to be a very apt description. Flower Child is very sweet and light with a “walking on air” quality that I can only describe as “floaty.” The Madagascan Rose Geranium and Lavender notes lend it a slightly herbaceous edge, while the Rose heart notes balance delicately above the Orris Root base. The image it brings to my mind is that of soft white dandelion tufts dancing on unseen currents as they get carried along by the wind. Perhaps the lightest of the Rich Hippie scents I’ve tried, Flower Child is perfect to wear on a balmy, sunny day.

Flower Child is available at Rich Hippie. Cost: 1/2 ounce @ $285.

Share This

I was pushing my shopping cart to my car when I came upon this unexpected floral display in the parking lot of my local supermarket.

As always, flowers say it best:

Have a happy and safe Fourth of July!

I’ll be taking the rest of the week off for some vacation time at the beach with my family. Be back Monday!

Love,
Christine

Share This

Trendhunter Magazine has uncovered these cool, handmade perfume rings from designer Johanna Jansson.
Yanko Design describes them:

Jewelry is never really meant to function in any purposeful way. People wear them to adorn and decorate. The perfume ring by Johanna Jansson flips that around and gives function to what otherwise would just be a bobble on our fingers.

Inspired by haute couture, the ring is created utilizing rapid prototyping in resin and old fashioned cutting and grinding. The layered glass effects create colors and special optical illusions, bending and refracting light. However the real gem here is the hollow structure with tap so you can apply a spritz of perfume anytime, anywhere.

What could be more convenient? I love this fun yet functional summertime jewelry!

Share This